“Sensational
Siem Reap”
Sun.Star
Davao, June 11, 2016
"Remote and dusty".
These
two words were recently used to describe Davao in an international article and,
as expected, it generated a slew of strong reactions from proud and unabashed Dabawenyos.
Netizens proudly posted photos online to highlight our beloved city’s present
progressive state as if to retort, “How dare you call our city remote and
dusty?!”.
I
admit though, I had the same impression before setting foot in Siem Reap,
Cambodia. Save for being curious to explore its renowned temples, I hardly harbored
any other expectations that can arouse any first time traveler to this exotic
destination. There were even times I had doubts whether it would be better to
go light and easy with just me and my hubby on this tick-off-our-bucket-list
trip.
However,
all these changed as soon as our Cambodia Angkor Air plane landed at Siem Reap
International Airport from Ho Chi Minh City. From relief to pure excitement and readiness
to explore, we were met with cool air conditioning, modern facilities and
courteous staff as we lined up for our turn at the immigration area. A money
exchange counter could be found at the airport. But, as we soon found out, there
was really no need to convert U.S. dollars to the local Cambodian Riel because both
currencies were widely accepted in Siem Reap. Free WIFI was likewise available
in most tourist-related establishments so purchasing internet SIM cards was not
necessary.
Meeting
us at the airport was Bayon Boutique Hotel’s amiable driver who spoke fluent
English. When he discovered that we were from the Philippines, he eagerly intimated
that he, together with his fellow Cambodians, always rooted for Manny Pacquiao
during his boxing matches. Just like us Filipinos, they would go as far as
taking the day off from work to watch his fights live on TV.
Khmer and
more
Our
contemporary Khmer-styled hotel, which I serendipitously chanced upon via Booking.com,
exuded a homey feel with its attentive staff and distinct interiors. The spacious
family room was quite a steal with two queen sized-beds, separate bathtub and
shower and two bathroom sinks while our mini bar was complimentary for the
first set of assorted beverages.
After
a leisurely swim at the hotel’s pristine saltwater pool, we walked a few steps
from the hotel to take our early dinner at Kuriosity Kafe. Because we worked up
an appetite after our swim, we ordered Fish ‘n Chips, Beef Lok Lak, Puttanesca,
Pad Thai and Chicken Fingers with Fries. These came in huge American-sized
servings and were fairly priced.
With
over an hour to spare before our circus show, we boarded the tuktuk (a hat tip
to the Thai pedicab) to the Old Market for some souvenir shopping. Seeing all
the international restaurants lined up along Pub Street (another instance showing
the openness of Siem Reap to foreigners) thrilled the foodie in me. It was as
if Boracay’s vibrant food scene was transported to Siem Reap. While indulging
on our delectable gelato, I made a mental note to carefully plan our gastronomic
agenda for the next two days. Ahhh…so
many food choices, so little time!
A
10-minute tuktuk ride took us to Phare, the Cambodian Circus. It is Siem Reap’s
highly rated evening entertainment where energetic performers weave historical,
folk and modern Cambodian stories through theater, music, dance and circus
arts. An association called Phare Ponleu Selpak (PPS) empowers the disadvantaged
but talented young Cambodians through arts education in Battambang, Cambodia. In a brief moment, our family was transported
back in time as Cambodian history was entrancingly unfolded before us, giving
us a glimpse of the country during its golden age, through its bloody upheaval
and eventually its modern renaissance and resurgence, all along impressing on us
its peace-loving people and culture.
After the show, we returned to the
hotel for a good night’s rest to energize us for our whole day temple tour the
following day.
Temple run
At
5:00 a.m. and with the hotel’s breakfast boxes in tow, we were picked up by our
very efficient driver Phalit Ngin (E-mail address: phalitsiemreap@gmail.com)
whom we booked via e-mail a few weeks before.
This guy swiftly responded to our email and initial queries before we
left for Cambodia, and constantly expressed his thanks for giving him work to
do.
At
Angkor Archaeological Park, there were three kinds of passes to choose from:
US$20.00=one-day pass; US$40.00=3 days visit with one-week validity (Any 3 days
in a week and 3 holes punched at the checkpoint); as well as US$60.00=7 days
visit with one-month validity (Any 7 days in a month and 7 holes punched at the
checkpoint). And, good news, kids 12 years old and below were free of charge
provided that their passports were presented.
Catching
the sunrise at Angkor Wat was the first order of the day. When we arrived,
there was already a sizable crowd gathered behind the lake with their cameras
in position, all set to capture their winning shots. As the sun gloriously rose
above Angkor Wat, I silently said a prayer of thanks to the Lord for allowing
me to witness this enchanting view with my family.
After
taking a couple of snaps, we basked in the rich and orangey glow of Mr. Sun and
made a slow retreat back to our rented car. En route to Bayon Temple, we passed
by stone-carved devas (guardian gods) on the bridge to Angkor Thom.
Splendidly
decorated with smiling stone faces and countless bas-reliefs, our family
unanimously chose Bayon Temple as our favorite temple at Angkor. It was
believed to be built in the late 12th or early 13th
century as the official state temple of the Mahayana Buddhist King Jayavarman
VII. For her Littlest Pet Shop Instagram account, my youngest daughter positioned
her LPS toys against Bayon’s baroque style Khmer architecture and came up with
dramatic results.
Among
the most recognized temples at Angkor is Ta Prohm where Actress Angelina
Jolie’s “Tomb Raider” movie was filmed on location. Deserted and neglected for
centuries after the Khmer Empire’s fall in the 17th century, Ta
Prohm’s most characteristic feature were the ancient fig, banyan and kapok
trees growing out of the ruins amidst its jungle surroundings. It became part
of UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1922.
Laughter
in the rain
Each time we boarded the
car, Phalit would thoughtfully offer ice cold bottled water. The kind gesture
was always appreciated because the 38 degree Celsius-temperature left us
dehydrated and sluggish. He also allowed us to take brief breaks inside the car
with the air-conditioner turned on in-between temple visits to recharge our
not-so-little ones’ depleting energy.
Upon
Phalit’s suggestion, we added Banteay Kdei to our temple tour after lunch. Also
known as “Citadel of Monks’ Cells”, it was a Buddhist temple with a Bayon
architectural style constructed in the mid-12th to early 13th
centuries AD during Jayavarman VII’s reign. Until the 1960s, it had been occupied by
monks at different periods over the centuries.
Returning
to Angkor Wat in the mid-afternoon, we were greeted by a much-welcome rain
shower. The 30-minute rain refreshed our bodies and spirits and made exploring
the “City of Temples” a more comfortable one. Regarded as the largest religious
monument in the world, Angkor Wat began as a Hindu temple for the Khmer Empire
but was eventually recreated into a Buddhist temple around the 12th
century.
Famished
after our day-long “temple run”, we bade goodbye to Phalit at Pub Street where
we then enjoyed chimichangas, quesadillas, nachos, and hearty tomato soup at
Viva Mexican Restaurant. For reaching my maximum step target for the day, I
treated myself to a huge glass of frozen margarita which only cost US$1.50.
Salud!
Charmed
Another
round of ‘chillax’ swimming and lounging by the hotel pool was done on our
final day followed by late lunch at Angelina Jolie’s well-loved Siem Reap hang-out,
The Red Piano. Their scrumptious Cambodian Fish Amok and Smoked Salmon were
instantly devoured by our hungry brood. There’s always room for dessert in our family,
so we headed to Blue Pumpkin for yummy ice cream and pastries.
Afterwards, we did last-minute pasalubong
shopping at the Old Market and Night Market. More eating ensued, with fruit
shakes and local stir-fried noodles, this time around. As we sat contentedly on
the plastic chairs by the road savoring our street food, it dawned on me that this
short vacation was surprisingly among the best family trips we’ve ever had. We did
not just enjoy Siem Reap but endeared ourselves, kids included, to this magical
place.
How can one not
fall in love and be charmed with Siem Reap? The Cambodian people were genuinely
warm and hospitable; the food choices were exceptionally diverse; and the
temples, breathtakingly out-of-this-world!
E-mail the author at mom.about.town.dvo@gmail.com.
Visit www.momabouttowndavao.blogspot.com.
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